Festivales, Festivales, y más festivales

So another week in the life of a foreigner with a dauntingly short time left in the place he’s grown to know and love.  This weekend was absolutely fantastic!  I experienced the most traditional regional things possible in the best time of year to do so: Cáceres’ patron saint day, San Jorge.  On Wednesday the Virgin of the Mountain came down from her lofty heights to much fanfare and celebration – another religious procession, yay!  And this one was special, because it passed right by my street, Calle Caleros, in the old section of town.  With the flags strung in between the houses, the carpet of incense branches strewn to make the air smell… well, weird, and the band playing the “Redoble,” Cáceres’ traditional song that features my street name, Calle Caleros welcomed the Virgin in style!!!!  And I got to view it all from our balcony.  What an awesome location!  All things considered, I’m glad I live in this old part.  

More festivities awaited Thursday night, on the eve of the San Jorge (Saint George) holiday.  Legend has it that after the sultan’s daughter betrayed the old Arabic Cáceres and the Christian soldiers conquered the city, the sultan turned his daughter into a chicken and set a dragon upon the conquerors.  San Jorge was brave enough to kill the dragon and save the city – yay!  So after a parade and a drama that recounted all this legend, and the arrival of the green and red paper-mâché dragon, what are we going to do?  BURN IT!!!!  And a spectacular burn it was – flames shot like 40 feet in the air and I could feel the heat 100 feet back.  

And after that, what do you do?  Shoot off a bunch of fireworks from the roof of the 200-year-old government building!!!!  And have lots of ash rain down on the crowd!!!! It all seemed a little bit dangerous to me (no big water source anywhere near), but it’s España, so “no pasa nada.”  Very nice show, and an incredible experience to be in a Plaza Mayor completely PACKED with people all feeling and watching the same thing, and knowing that this has been going on far longer than anything in the US.  So what do you do after the fireworks show?  Look for the chicken in the old part of the city!!!!  2 €150 prizes, but unfortunately we didn’t find anything… well, except this creepy guy dressed in a chicken costume with a sign saying, “I’m the chicken.”  They’re in every culture.  What a cool night to experience a true Spanish festival!  The next day NOTHING was open in town, because everyone was sleeping and taking advantage of the 3-day weekend.  Spanish people really know how to do weekend trips.  I did get the chance to see the Virgin in the Cathedral though – that’s where she stays for 9 days, where they change her dress every day.  You’re supposed to guess what color you think she will be wearing as you enter, and if you’re right you get a wish!  I’m 1/6 so far… still pretty sweet.  

Saturday I got to experience another important piece of Spanish culture, the bullfight.  Though I’m glad I went to one, I think it will be my last.  This was a special bullfight, the art of “Rejoneo” where nearly everything is done on horseback (makes for some very graceful and pretty horses).  In the 2 ½ hours, 3 fighters killed 6 bulls for a crowd of probably 200 that paid like €30 a piece.  Is that worth taunting and ritually sacrificing 6 living breathing animals?  I understand that it’s part of the historical culture, but that can change as modern sentiments change (and it’s beginning to – only about 30% of the population supports bullfighting here).  That being said, there was definitely an artful and aesthetic quality to the fight – a little too much bravado, perhaps, but it was indeed a spectacle.  One of the fighters was a woman which was an interesting dynamic to see.  In the end, bullfighting is billed as the great conflict between man and beast, but it’s just not.  It’s a set up from beginning to end: the bull is bred for aggressive behavior, is led into the ring and directed toward the one who can hurt it, is weakened, injured, and confused, and uses its instincts to do the only thing it can, to continue fighting.  It was all a little sad to see, but like I said, I’m glad I got to see it and inform my opinion.  And hey, I got to talk to this nice old guy sitting next to me for like an hour, so I’ll always take that.  Ended the day with tapas at an outdoor café with friends… I love Spain!  Overall, a great weekend.  My host mother was gone and left us all the food we needed for the weekend, which was a nice break from her mostly well-intentioned dotings and interferences.  They take the concept of “s”mothering a little overboard here.  Every day brings me closer to the Camino, but I’ve got to enjoy my remaining time in Cáceres first.  Too soon…