Just give me that old time religion... maybe...

So, Holy Week in Spain - wow!!! What an experience! Very glad I decided to stay in this country and see what it's like! This is the big time of the year for Spaniards. Easter lasts a whole week in Spain. Whereas our Christmas is more important, Easter is the big holiday here. First thing I noticed was the large amounts of tourists due to many people having the week off for vacation. Very Spanish. Lots of families out and about, in parks or at the various museums, which was nice to see.

Tuesday night I caught my very first religious procession, in Zaragoza. These are the ones where the men and women in robes with pointed hats (yes KKK outfits, but they existed here WAY before the racist group stole them) walk in parades, carrying incense, playing drums or trumpets, and of course shouldering the what I call Jesus floats: platforms with some kind of biblical scene or the virgin Mary with lots of candles. Pretty creepy really. The processions are made up of people in cofradías, or confraternities/guilds/religious associations, dedicated to a particular saint or cause, with distinctive insignia and color of garb. They get together to orchestrate the parade, practice the music, and get it all ready. They parade all around the city, cofradías together or separate, playing the same melancholy songs, beating the drums in rounds. Quite powerful really. There's even kids in the cofradías, which is super cute to see them all dressed up. And EVERYONE in town goes to the processions - just like a homecoming parade in the states. All kinds of people crowded around the streets, taking pictures, clapping and cheering at times. Caught a smaller procession in Zaragoza Tuesday, then a big multi-cofradía one in Bilbao on Thursday (judged to have the most important processions in northern Spain). Southern Spain has the best processions - no doubt you've heard of Seville's. But I liked what I saw just fine too! Finally, saw a very small austere procession in Burgos Saturday night.
The really interesting and sad thing is that Spain has lost its religiosity. Only like 5% of the population are practicing, though 80% still claim Catholicism. I saw a survey on TV Saturday that said "In your opinion has Spain's Holy Week lost its religious fervor? 60% said yes when I last saw. After Franco died and forced religion died out, church membership died too... amazing how coercion never really works. As a result, the Catholic church in Spain really hasn't changed at all. At all. It's much different than protestantism, and even a lot different from Catholicism in the U.S. So, one might ask, why do people still go to the processions? In the words of this nice couple I talked to for an hour during the Bilbao procession: "Where there is noise, the people go." I about busted a gut when I heard that, but it's pretty true, across cultures and countries. There definitely is a lot of noise, and it's pretty exciting! I liked seeing the processions.

Then there was Sunday. I wanted to end up at a sweet place for Easter mass (no real chance of finding a Methodist service...), so I chose Burgos. Gorgeous 13th-14th century Gothic cathedral. I mean, they've been celebrating Easter mass here for over 700 years - wow, to take part in such a long history!!! I waited until the noon service, when they would hold mass in the central nave. WOW!!! I got a seat right under the fantastic skylight, sitting ON TOP of the Cid's tomb (legendary medieval Spanish hero). ON TOP of the Cid's tomb. Epic. The old men all shuffled in, finally the bishop with the sweet little hat and staff. As they shushed the tourists away, the mass started. I finally got to hear one of those sweet Baroque organs in action!!! It was, well, normal. The organist wasn't actually very good, in fact he made so many nasty mistakes that my fervor to learn organ has been renewed. If I can play as good as the Burgos organist, I think I'll be fine! Also a choir from one of the parishes in town - kind of made me miss good old Chancel choir. We started all the chants and things I have no idea about (cucumber watermelon strawberry...), and even a few I do (Padre nuestro), sang some monotone music without anything written (what is the aversion to using a hymnal?), and listened to the sermon. This was the part I liked least, and took the most issue with. Fist, the bishop started by reviewing the entire story we'd just heard from the scripture reading. Then, he talked about how it was strange that Jesus appeared to women, because they didn't have social clout or power "in that time." He explained a little about the importance of the women, but his conclusion was that they were important because they had been Jesus' servants. Talk about reinforcing stereotypes. I don't really appreciate that sentiment. Finally, he concluded with a diatribe on how it's essential to believe in the resurrection of Jesus - that there are many atheists, agnostics, and even professed "Christians" (stressed that point) who don't believe, but use Jesus' life as a model. He talked about that the Christian code of conduct was not all there was to the faith, but then the ONLY examples he provided of true believers in the resurrection were those who kept moral purity in the face of temptation. That seemed to kind of disprove his point to me, but I'm not the bishop... Overall, I was not really impressed at all with the message. I know that's not representative of any one faith or branch or even country, but it just didn't move me. Afterwards, I kept seated during the Eucharist (not really sure what the procedures are for non-Catholics in Spain, and I even feel uncomfortable crossing my arms at Creighton :), then headed out to the sunny streets of Burgos, where I enjoyed seeing all the people out in the plazas, clowns with balloons, and a general convivial and festive atmosphere.  

Didn't get any chocolate bunnies (the only one I saw was 6€ - ridiculous!), but did have some dried fruit and Principe cookies - yum! Holy Week has now come to a close, and it was a good experience. I definitely miss my CUMC, but I'll get to return there in future years. Easter is TOTALLY different here, and it was great to see those differences. One of the things you have to see in Spain, and there was definitely some cultural gain.